Breakthrough at 99 Ranch

99 Ranch is a pan-Asian grocery store in the U.S. What sets it apart from traditional American grocery stores is its fish department. While most American supermarkets sell pre-cut fillets, 99 Ranch features a wide selection of whole fish. The staff stands ready to prep the fish to your liking—cleaned, head removed, or even fried.

Despite the robust selection and the full service, I had never bought a whole fish in my 15 years of shopping there. I often wanted to try it, but my lack of experience held me back: I felt stumped about which fish to choose and how to cook it. 

Seafood is an integral part of Cantonese cuisine, so I had a fair amount of fish growing up. However, as a kid, I was a mindless eater. I often ate whatever was at the dinner table without knowing what fish they were or how they were prepared; my mother took care of all that.

When I visited 99 Ranch this past week, I felt the urge to break the cycle. I decided to go with the most straightforward option that involved no work: fried fish.

Approaching the seafood counter, I was once again overwhelmed by the options. Cod, tilapia, hamachi… How about bass? Oh, there are three types of bass…

As I stood, undecided and unsure, the shoppers around me navigated with confidence. A Chinese lady picked up a trout with a plastic bag in hand. An Indian lady requested to slice her bass into four equal steak pieces.

Finally, it was my turn. I mustered the courage and asked if snappers were suitable for frying; the seafood clerk behind the counter said yes.

“Ok, I will take this snapper. Regular fry #5, please.” I said.

The clerk efficiently cleaned and descaled the fish before dunking it into the hot oil. Five minutes later, he removed the golden-fried snapper from the fryer, wrapped it in foil and paper, and slapped a $6.32 sticker on the packet. He handed it over and wished me a good day.

That’s it?

I took the fish home and enjoyed it with soy sauce and chili sauce; it was delicious. What tasted better, though, was the triumph from a small breakthrough: I no longer have to shy away from the fish department.